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Analysis of ice climber sport performance during competition
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Katarina Manovski, Milivoj Dopsaj, Vladimir Koprivica, Milinko Dabović, Marija Anđelković, Nenad Dikić.
University of Belgrade, FSPE, student MAS; University of Belgrade, FSPE, Serbia; International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, UIAA, Bern, Switzerland.

indent Abstract
Sport discipline ice climbing was built on the reputation of climbing frozen waterfalls and can be defined as a unique discipline under the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) in artificial, prescribed conditions, and according to certain rules. Due to the lack of articles about the motor activities of top ice climbers, the aim of this study is to determine sport performance of ice climbers, both genders, in discipline "lead climbing". Both genders are analysed, because in this sport discipline there is positive discrimination, due to the weaker characteristics of the female climbers. The propositions define that women and men have different climbing routes. Therefore, the sample were UIAA World Cup finalists in Beijing (2017) in lead climbing discipline, 8 men and 8 women. The method of work is the analysis of sport performance using the notation analysis. It was found that the average time of the race for men was 224.52 ± 98.81 seconds, of which the active climbing time was 103.88 ± 48.97 seconds, while the passive climbing time – pauses was 119.66 ± 50.40 seconds. The average time of the race of women was 219.09 ± 62.11 seconds, of which the active climbing time was 108.52 ± 31.37 seconds, while the passive climbing time-pause was 110.58 ± 41.42 seconds. Although men and women climbed in a different direction, this analysis did not find the difference in sport performance between the gender, as well as in terms of the climbing pace and the type of technique used. The results of this analysis can be of great importance to trainers for practical work, for the immediate preparation of competitors for participation in UIAA ice climbing competitions.

 

keywords ICE CLIMBING / SPORT PERFOMANCE ANALISYS / PACE / UIAA